Ujjain, Madhya Pradesh

Why this place matters

Ujjain, an ancient city on the Shipra river, is one of the seven moksha-puris (liberating cities) of tradition and the home of the Mahakaleshwar jyotirlinga. It is also one of the four cities of the Kumbh gathering, known here as the Simhastha. The city's old name is Avantika.

Tradition counts the Shipra's ghats among the places where ancestors are remembered. A rite of Tarpan or Shraddha here is often combined with darshan of Mahakaleshwar. Many families from central and western India come for this purpose, and the mild climate of the Malwa plateau suits visitors from other parts of the country.

Rituals performed here

• Siddhavat Ghat: The most celebrated spot for Shraddha and Pind Daan in Ujjain. The Siddhavat is a revered banyan tree on the Shipra bank, and many priests perform Pitru rites here.
• Ram Ghat: The main bathing ghat and the best-known place in the city. Pilgrims bathe, offer Tarpan, and take part in the evening aarti.
• Dutta Akhara Ghat and others: Several other ghats along the river are also used for Tarpan by families.
• Other temples: Pilgrims often also visit Mahakaleshwar, Harsiddhi, Kal Bhairav and other temples during the same trip.

The steps are the usual ones: a bath, a vow, Tarpan, then Shraddha with pindas as guided by the priest. For the general method see the Tarpan vidhi and Pind Daan vidhi guides on this site.

Best time to visit

Traditional occasions. Pitru Paksha and every Amavasya, with Somvati Amavasya considered especially good, are the days families choose. The Simhastha Kumbh, held roughly every twelve years at Ujjain, brings great numbers of pilgrims.

Practical season. October to March is the pleasant season, with warm days and cool nights. April to June is very hot. The monsoon, from July to September, brings heavy rain; the Shipra can rise and cover the lower ghats. Pitru Paksha falls at the end of the monsoon and may be humid.

Planning your visit

Ujjain has priests on the ghats who conduct Tarpan and Shraddha. Many families have a traditional priest by region or family tradition; ask your elders.

• Book through an official or well-reviewed channel, and agree on the scope of the rite and the dakshina (dakshina = the priest's offering) before beginning. Avoid touts near the temple and ghat approaches who promise special access or quick darshan for a fee.
• Time needed: a standard Tarpan and Shraddha takes a few hours. Allow one full day, and a second day for temple visits.
• Getting there: Ujjain Junction is a major railway station. The nearest large airport is Indore, about an hour or two by road. Taxis and buses run between the cities.
• What to wear and carry: clothes for bathing and a change, a towel, sandals, a hat, water, a small waterproof bag. Modest clothes are expected at temples, and some require traditional dress for certain rituals.

Practical tips

• Mahakaleshwar darshan queues can be very long, especially on Mondays, festivals and holidays. Decide in advance whether you want darshan, and check the temple's official booking system rather than paying anyone to skip the line.
• The Shipra water quality changes with the season. If you are unsure, perform Tarpan with a small vessel and avoid swallowing the water.
• Accessibility: the ghats have broad steps, but wet steps are slippery. Ask your priest to arrange a spot with few steps for elderly pilgrims.
• Book rooms in advance for Pitru Paksha, Maha Shivaratri and Simhastha years.
• Official information is available from the Mahakaleshwar Temple Management Committee and the Ujjain district administration.