Omkareshwar, Madhya Pradesh

Why this place matters

Omkareshwar is a small temple town on the Narmada in western Madhya Pradesh, built on an island whose shape is said to resemble the sacred syllable Om. It is the site of one of the twelve jyotirlingas of Shiva, together with Mamleshwar on the south bank. A well-known tradition holds that the Narmada is as sacred as the Ganga, and that a pilgrim should walk around the river, a journey called the Narmada Parikrama.

Omkareshwar is not one of the large, famous centres for Pind Daan like Gaya. The Narmada ghats here are used for bathing and prayer, and, as with any sacred river, families may offer Tarpan on its banks. There is no widely documented tradition of large-scale ancestor rites here, so treat it as a peaceful place for Tarpan and prayer. If your family has a custom of doing rites at Omkareshwar, a local priest can guide you. Traditions vary; follow your family's custom or your priest's guidance.

Rituals performed here

• Narmada ghats: Pilgrims bathe, take a vow, and offer Tarpan (tarpan = water offering with sesame to ancestors). Kotitirtha Ghat is a well-known bathing ghat, and the river aarti takes place in the evening.
• Shraddha with a local priest: Priests in the town may conduct a simple Shraddha on request. Ask for the form that suits your family's tradition.
• Darshan: Omkareshwar and Mamleshwar temples are the main aim of most pilgrims. Many families also take part in the island parikrama on foot.

For the general method see the Tarpan vidhi and Shraddha days guides on this site.

Best time to visit

Traditional occasions. Amavasya days, Pitru Paksha, Kartik Purnima, Maha Shivaratri and Narmada Jayanti are important days at the Narmada tirthas, with large crowds on festival days.

Practical season. October to March is pleasant, with warm days and cool nights. April to June is very hot. The monsoon, from July to September, brings heavy rain; the river rises, some ghats may be closed, and boat rides are restricted for safety. Pitru Paksha falls at the end of the monsoon, when the river may still be high.

Planning your visit

Omkareshwar has local priests (pandas or purohits) who conduct pujas and rites. If you plan to do a Shraddha rather than only Tarpan, speak to your family priest first, or ask the temple authorities for names.

• Book through an official or well-reviewed channel, and agree on the scope of the rite and the dakshina (dakshina = the priest's offering) before beginning. Beware of touts at the bridge, the boat landing and temple lanes who offer packages.
• Time needed: Tarpan takes an hour or two. Allow one to two days including darshan, and more if you add the parikrama.
• Getting there: the nearest main railway station is Omkareshwar Road, about a dozen kilometres away, and the nearest large airport is Indore, a couple of hours away by road. Ujjain is further north.
• What to wear and carry: modest clothes you can bathe in, a spare set, a towel, sandals, a hat, water. Bring some cash for small purchases.

Practical tips

• The temple is reached by a bridge or by boat over the river. Boat rides should be taken only from licensed operators who provide life jackets.
• Steps to the temple and ghats are numerous and can be wet. Elderly pilgrims should ask about the easiest route.
• Crowds are heavy on Mondays, Amavasya days and festivals; weekdays outside the season are calmer.
• Book rooms ahead for Maha Shivaratri and Kartik Purnima.
• Official information is available from the Omkareshwar temple administration and the Khandwa district authorities.