Gaya, Bihar

Why this place matters

For many Hindus, Gaya is the first place that comes to mind when they think of Pind Daan (pind daan = the offering of rice balls to departed ancestors). Tradition says that a Shraddha performed here is the fullest and final act of remembrance, and that it brings peace to the ancestors of both the father's and the mother's side.

The Puranic story tells of Gayasura, a demon devoted to Vishnu, whose body became the sacred ground on which Gaya stands. Vishnu pressed his foot on it, and the footprint is honoured at the Vishnupad temple. Local tradition also links Rama and Sita with Pind Daan for Dasharatha at Gaya, including Sita's offering at the Phalgu river. These are accounts handed down by tradition, and families hold them with deep respect.

Rituals performed here

The main rites are Pind Daan, Shraddha and Tarpan (tarpan = offering water with sesame to ancestors). Traditionally they are done at several sacred spots, called vedis (vedi = altar or platform). Old texts speak of a very large number of vedis; today a few dozen are in use, and the exact number varies between sources.

• Phalgu river: The pilgrimage usually begins here with a bath, Tarpan and the first offerings. The river is seasonal and often flows beneath the sand, so rites are done on the sandy bed and at the riverside ghats.
• Vishnupad temple: Here pilgrims offer pindas at the vedis around the footprint of Vishnu. Many pilgrims speak of the sixteen vedis (solah vedi) at and near the temple.
• Akshayavat: The sacred banyan tree, whose name means the undying banyan. Tradition places the closing offering of the Gaya Shraddha here, and the priest of Akshayavat gives the final blessing.
• Other sites: Sita Kund, Pretshila hill, Ram Shila and Brahmayoni hill are among the places visited by those doing the longer circuit.

Many families also offer pindas at Gaya for ancestors who died in unfortunate circumstances or whose rites were missed. Traditions vary; follow your family's custom or your priest's guidance. For the general method see the Pind Daan vidhi and Tarpan vidhi guides on this site.

Best time to visit

Traditional occasions. The great gathering is the Pitru Paksha mela, held in the Bhadrapada Krishna fortnight (called Ashvin Krishna in the purnimanta scheme), which runs from the full moon of Bhadrapada to Sarva Pitru Amavasya. Many families come on the tithi of the death anniversary within this period. Amavasya days through the year are also considered good.

Practical season. Pitru Paksha falls at the end of the monsoon. Expect heat, humidity, sudden rain and very large crowds, which strain lodging, roads and ghats. Families who prefer a calmer visit choose October to March, when days are pleasant and nights cool, and there is no mela. Do not come between April and June, when daytime heat is severe. Priests are available throughout the year. Ask your priest whether your family's custom needs a particular tithi.

Planning your visit

Gaya has a hereditary community of priests, the Gayawal pandas (panda = a priest who guides pilgrims at a tirtha). Many families have a long-standing panda for their region or ancestral village, and elders may know the name. If not, ask your family priest, a relative who has been, or the official arrangements put up by the Bihar state authorities during the mela.

• Book through an official or well-reviewed channel, and settle the scope of the rite before it starts: which vedis, how many days, who provides samagri (samagri = items for puja), and the dakshina (dakshina = the priest's offering).
• Do not follow touts at the station or temple gate who promise a quick package. Ask for a clear list of what is included.
• Time needed: traditions describe visits of one day, three days, five, seven, fifteen or seventeen days. A one-day visit is accepted by many; choose what suits your family's custom.
• Getting there: Gaya has its own airport and a major railway junction, and taxis and e-rickshaws run from both to the Vishnupad area.
• Wear simple, modest, easy-to-wash clothes. Bring a towel, a spare set, a hat or umbrella, easy sandals, drinking water and a small bag for valuables.

Practical tips

• Book hotels and dharamshalas (dharamshala = pilgrim guesthouse) well ahead for Pitru Paksha.
• Drink only bottled or boiled water and carry any medicines you need. The heat and crowds can be hard on the elderly and young children.
• The terrain around Vishnupad and the hills involves steps and uneven ground. Those with limited mobility should ask the priest which rites can be done at ground level.
• For current schedules, registration arrangements and facilities, check the Bihar State Tourism Department and the Gaya district administration. Do not rely on third-party websites for dates.
• Many people also visit nearby Bodh Gaya on the same trip.