Pushkar, Rajasthan

Why this place matters

Pushkar, near Ajmer, is built around a small sacred lake that tradition calls Tirtharaj Pushkar (tirtharaj = king of holy places). It is counted among the five sacred lakes of the Hindu pilgrim map, the Pancha Sarovar. Pushkar is also one of the few places in India with a temple dedicated to Brahma, the creator.

According to the Puranic story, the lake came into being where a lotus (pushkar) fell from the hand of Brahma, and the gods are said to have gathered here for his sacrifice. Traditions say that a bath and Tarpan at this lake bring merit and satisfaction to the ancestors. Many families visit for a short, calm ancestor rite, especially from Rajasthan, Gujarat and the north.

Rituals performed here

The lake is ringed by some fifty ghats (ghat = stepped bank), and priests sit at many of them. A usual order is as follows.

• Bath and vow: The pilgrim bathes in the lake and takes a vow (sankalpa), stating the names of the departed.
• Tarpan: Water is offered with sesame and kusha grass to the devas, the rishis and the ancestors.
• Pind Daan and Shraddha: Rice or barley-flour balls are offered to the preceding generations of the father's and mother's side, then a Brahmin is fed or given dana.
• Brahma temple and other shrines: Visits to the Brahma temple, the Savitri temple on the hill and other shrines usually follow.

Customs differ by family and by priest. For the general method see the Tarpan vidhi and Pind Daan vidhi guides on this site.

Best time to visit

Traditional occasions. Kartik Purnima and the days leading to it are the great bathing days at Pushkar, when many believe the gods gather in the lake; the famous Pushkar fair is held at the same season. Amavasya days and Pitru Paksha are also kept here.

Practical season. The weather is best from October to March, with bright days and cold nights in December and January, when you will need a jacket. April to June is very hot and the town is dry. The monsoon brings moderate rain and green hills, and the lake is fullest after it. Around the Kartik fair, the town is crowded and rooms are expensive and scarce.

Planning your visit

Pushkar has a large community of priests (pandas), often with hereditary family records. Many families have a long-standing priest there; ask your elders.

• Book through an official or well-reviewed channel, and agree on the scope of the rite and the dakshina (dakshina = the priest's offering) before beginning. Be very careful of touts at the ghats who offer you a flower or a quick vow and then demand a large donation. Say no firmly and walk away if you feel pressed.
• Time needed: a Tarpan and Shraddha can be done in a half day. Allow a day, and an extra day if you wish to see the temples.
• Getting there: Pushkar is about fifteen kilometres from Ajmer, which has a main railway station. The nearest large airport is Jaipur, a few hours away by road; check for any nearer scheduled flights.
• What to wear and carry: modest clothes you can bathe in, a spare set, a towel, sandals (you will go barefoot at the ghats), a hat and sunscreen by day, a warm layer for evenings.

Practical tips

• The town follows a strict vegetarian and alcohol-free custom around the lake; respect it.
• Footwear is left behind at the ghats, and photography near the lake is restricted. Follow the signs and local guidance.
• Ghats have steps and wet stone; the elderly should take care and use a ghat with fewer steps.
• Book rooms early for Kartik Purnima week, and for weekends in the cooler months.
• Official information is available from the Rajasthan Tourism Department and the Pushkar municipal and district authorities. Check these for fair dates, closures and arrangements.